Scafell. Rematch

After failing on our line on Tuesday, Paddy Cave and myself were back at Scafell for a rematch today. We went armed with Brian Davison, plus a selection of homemade climbing equipment.

After a tricky drive round to Wasdale that took a bit longer than planned and a snow bash of a walk in we were back under the crag. It was quite a bit warmer today and although there was new snow it was wetter heavier snow. Lots of o ice on the Shamrock, cascade etc but it was dripping this morning. Feeling a bit tired and not my usual self I opted to leave Paddy and Brian to their route and joined Rick Armitage and John Kelly ( who had travelled round with us) on Moss Ghyll.

Moss Ghyll was hard going. It was never technically very difficult it was just buried under snow. There was no ice on the collie step which was quite balancy.

A thaw is forecast, which will give me a much needed rest. At the moment Sunday is looking like a possibility for high up ice, mixed routes will strip out very quickly with the weather that has been forecast.

Scafell.. Kids in a sweet shop..

Made the trip round to Wasdale today and Scafell didn't disappoint. I have climbed on Scafell in winter before but today it felt like I had been transported to a magical realm of winter climbing. I haven't seen so much opportunity for futuristic lines anywhere else before. Conditions were amazing. We tried a new line on the East buttress before deciding the ice was a bit brittle and the wind a bit strong and then headed round to the main crag, eventually darkness overtook us before we got up the chosen route of the day.

We suffered a bit from the kids in a sweet shop syndrome and should have been more focused on a single objective.

Lets just say we have some unfinished business.

Aira Force. Good things come to those who wait..

After a speculative look at Aira Force on Christmas day, I decided that it had been cold enough for long enough since then to be worth another look, my Dad popped down there this morning ( it's in his back garden) and confirmed that it would be climbable.

It didn't disappoint and the after work darkness only added to the atmosphere as we headed in to the gorge to the sound of thundering water. A nice traverse above the plunge pool on featured ice led to more featured ice, the final moves on the main pillar with water thundering underneath you were great. I placed a number of bomber screws both to protect the seconds on the traverse and in anticipation of thin ice with a waterfall gushing underneath me, fortunately this was never the case it all felt very relaxed. A great little route. The walk in took an epic 5 minutes.

The top car park is closed at the moment because of ongoing tree work, walk in from the main Aira force car park.

With Aira force being climbable it doesn't take a genius to work out that a lot of low level ice will be good. Rick climbed sandbed ghyll today, Low water beck is complete, etc,etc enjoy les cascades de lake district.

Photos and film show John Kelly and my Dad enjoying Aira Force

Launchy Ghyll

After a tip off from Paul Cornforth who climbed Launchy Ghyll yesterday morning, I headed to climb it last night. We started from the road and continuing interest with lots of little ice steps eventually led to the main pitch. A number of lines were possible on the main pitch. Finished up the right hand side after this.

Turn left at the top to walk down.

The road down the West side of Thirlmere and the parking areas really needed 4X4 to avoid getting stuck.

FWA D Route, Gimmer.

A strong NW wind overnight had plastered snow onto Gimmer, I had intended to climb Gimmer crack which will be in good condition but on arriving at the crag the Alphabet face was looking in good condition, this is a rare occurrence.

We climbed easy ground from the foot of Bracket and Slab to gain Ash tree ledge. This was nice easy mixed climbing. We then climbed the forked lightening crack of D route in 2 pitches the step left under the roof on the first pitch giving the technical crux and the top crack pitch giving brilliant climbing in a great position. It was both harder and more sustained than Bowfell Buttress and I would argue a better quality climb if that is possible. The turf was good and there were even bits and pieces of useful water ice on the rock

The wind has scoured slopes facing NW and we had crampons on back to the car. I was surprised to see no ice in Dungeon Ghyll.

Dave Birkett climbed one of the Wasdale Screes Gullies today.

I would be very wary of the Helvellyn head wall, there is some windslab about.

I was quite disappointed to get back in the daylight and didn't get a chance to have a go with my new headtorch, maybe next time..

The Freeze Continues

Snow high up is still in need of a freeze thaw cycle, up to about 400m it has had some freeze thaw and is consolidating giving very slippy approach paths compacted snow on paths is particularly treacherous. I have been running intro winter skills courses in my garden in Ambleside. Note Rowan manages to keep hold of his ice axe.

Low level ice will be coming into condition, I had a look at Aira force on Christmas day, it wasn't anywhere near climbable but I will be heading back for another look soon.

One of the Crinkle Ghyll ice falls had seen an ascent at the weekend. Snow is forecast overnight tonight with an increasing wind speed so some more unusual mixed venues might come into condition. Bowfell Buttress is in good condition and the traffic it had at the weekend will have compacted the snow where necessary.

Lessons! FWA Hangover Dove Crag

Lesson 1.

If you can drive to within an hours walk of a crag do. Don't decide that the cumulative driving and walking time would be the same as walking from home and embark on a 2 and a half hour snow bash to get to your route.

Lesson 2.

Don't drop your leashless tool down a bottomless crack half way up a route with darkness clipping at you heals in part due to lesson 1.

Lesson 3.

If you have yet to take heed of lesson 2 make sure your headtorch works before you attempt to finish your route with one axe. Climbing in the dark with one tool and no torch presents a challenge.

Lesson 4.

If you have yet to take heed of lessons 1,2 and 3 make sure you are climbing with Brian Davison who it turns out is quite good at climbing in the Dark with no torch and only one axe, He also still uses leashes so there is no risk of him dropping his. If you have fallen short on lessons 2 and 3 steal his torch and ice axe and make a B line for the top of the crag leaving him to deal with the aftermath.

Lesson 5.

If you failed at lesson 1 it is a long walk down without a torch.

Today I learnt these lessons on the first winter ascent of Hangover, Dove crag. It was a long walk in from Ambleside, I dropped my tool down a big crack, my torch didn't work when it got dark and it was a long walk home. It was a good route and I'm sure in the not too distant future I'll decide that I had a good time.

Conditions were quite good the turf was dry frozen which made things a bit precarious at times. The snow on the fell tops has consolidated quite a bit with the wind throughout the day. The paths low down are very icy.